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Insider tips Bologna: a guide for all kinds of travel
City trips in Europe
Insider tips Bologna: a guide for all kinds of travel

With its terracotta-coloured buildings, unique culinary traditions and the oldest university in Europe, Bologna is the pearl of Emilia-Romagna. In this guide, we let you in on the best tips for good food, aperitivo, shopping and culture.

Florian Roost (Text)Milena Steiner (Photos)

Person walking through an illuminated arcade in Bologna at night
Food and drink

The cuisine of Bologna towers over Italy much as the Asinelli towers over the city itself. It is not for nothing that the city is referred to as Italy’s culinary capital. Ragù alla bolognese, tortellini in brodo, mortadella and Parmigiano Reggiano – just to name a few of the dishes and products to come from the region of Bologna. Those who love traditional Italian food will be delighted by what there is to discover here.

Ragù

Traditionally, ragù alla bolognese is served with tagliatelle – and not spaghetti, as is often the case outside Italy. But in the restaurant ‘Ragù’ the classic Italian dish is transformed into street food: ragù in a bun. Sounds strange, but it is surprisingly good. The modern bistro has specialised in Bolognese cuisine and, in addition to this modern interpretation of ragù in a bun, they also have the traditional tagliatelle al ragù. What the dishes have in common is a very high-quality meat sauce. The interior, with pots and cooking utensils hanging from the ceiling, emphasises the charm of the locale.

Drogheria della Rosa

This restaurant is in a former pharmacy and has kept all of its charm: wooden cupboards crammed with all sorts of glass vessels and pharmacy equipment. The tables, decked in white, squeezed in next to each other make it feel as if you are back in Nonna’s parlour. Through the speakers, a violin concerto completes the effect. The menu lists traditional Bolognese dishes such as fresh home-made pasta, including traditional tagliatelle with ragù and tortellini. The owner, Emanuele Addone, greets his guests in person, explains what the dishes are, and recommends the best wines for each dish.

Mò! Mortadella Lab

Mortadella has its origins in Emilia-Romagna and has been known since the time of the Romans. Mo Mortadella Lab hasn’t been around quite that long: in Bologna, there are two locations where this takeaway offers 24 different kinds of sandwich. What they all have in common is the ‘Rosetta’ bun and the finest mortadella in Bologna, produced exclusively for Mò.

Fram

This charming little bistro is to be found in a nondescript road. The decor is reminiscent of a visit to the Salvation Army: a selection of vintage furniture gives the location its distinctive charm. The ingredients for the dishes are just as carefully chosen. Here, only organic ingredients are used for the entirely plant-based food. What is offered ranges from baked goods to granola and from salads to vegetarian burgers. A place to relax, to work, or to meet friends.

Zoo

Breakfast in Italy is not limited to simply caffè and cornetto. Zoo makes this very clear. The menu reveals a comprehensive brunch offering, from home-made baked goods to pancakes to fresh juices. All of this is rounded off with excellent speciality coffee. In addition, the café is also a bookshop and a place to work, especially treasured by students and creative types. The perfect place for inspired work.

Scuderia Future Food Living Lab

What makes this place different? The atmosphere: young, lively and dynamic. This is where students meet to learn and drink coffee. Not entirely surprising, as this restaurant – which is also a café – is to be found in the heart of the university quarter. There is a particular focus on sustainable nutrition and supporting food tech start-ups. Consequently, workshops, events and art exhibitions regularly take place here, dealing with topics relating to sustainable practices and the future of food.

Caffè Terzi

The meeting place for everyone who sees coffee as more than just a way of consuming caffeine. Since 2001, Caffè Terzi has specialised in top quality coffees, which the owner, Manuel Terzi personally selects. Six different coffee mixtures are available to customers, prepared by expert baristas. As is proper in Italy, the coffee is drunk at the bar. For those who feel a little peckish, fresh baked goods are ready and waiting to round off a traditional Italian breakfast.

Aperitivo

In Bologna, the aperitivo is a well-established part of everyday life, marking the arrival of the evening. It might be a traditional spritz, a glass of wine from the region or a Negroni: The aperitivo is more than just a drink. It is a social ritual, and the perfect way to embark on an evening of pleasure.

Bar Senza Nome

This is the first and only bar in Italy to be run by deaf people. The very special experience here is that customers can order their meals using Italian sign language – illustrations provide the hand movements required. Those who might be expecting a quiet location will find they are mistaken. The bar is a popular one, and not just with deaf customers. The Bar Senza Nome regularly organises cultural events, book presentations, concerts and exhibitions, which are designed to be enjoyed by visitors who are deaf as well as those who are not.

Le Stanze

This bar in the former private chapel of the 16th century Palazzo Bentivoglio is certain to provide a unique experience. The high ceilings and well-preserved frescoes lend the location elegance and an incomparable atmosphere. The name is apt: Stanze is Italian for rooms, referring to the various rooms which make up the bar. Well-trained barmen mix creative cocktails and guests settle in for an evening of pleasure.

Cantinella

You will find this charming bistro hidden in the historic court of the 16th century Teatro Arena del Sole. Away from the hubbub of the city, the picturesque inner courtyard provides a calm, relaxed atmosphere. The menu lists light meals and a well-curated selection of natural wines and refreshing drinks.

Shopping

Shopping and city breaks simply belong together, and Bologna offers the perfect setting for both. Among the historic arcades and charming alleys, traditional craft businesses, independent boutiques and outlandish concept stores invite you to come in and look around.

Bifranci Ceramica

The Bologna region is known for its majolica – a kind of glazed pottery. The young artist Francesca Tomasini runs a small shop in her studio, where she creates hand-made ceramic works of art. From lampshades and olive oil bottles to plates, dishes and cups – you are sure to find a beautiful souvenir of Bologna here.

Antica Cappelleria Malaguti

Hat-making is also a long-established tradition in Bologna. Situated on a trade route, the city had access to cloth, leather and felt, all of which contributed to the local tradition of hat-making. The oldest millinery in Bologna, the Antica Cappelleria Malaguti was established in 1870. Today it is run by Marzia Malaguti, a granddaughter of the founder, Girolamo Colombarini. Here you will find headwear for every occasion.

Disco d’Oro

Bologna has a lively and diverse music scene and was named a ‘city of music’ by UNESCO in 2006. Unsurprisingly, there are record shops all over the city. Disco d’Oro is a shop for lovers of music with a real history of its own. The shop has catered to a broad variety of musical tastes since 1976: indie, rock, hip hop and Italian chansons too.

Fitzroy

Fitzroy is a riot of colour. The shop is small and focuses on hand-made products, illustrations and design. For the owners, it is important that they offer local artists and independent brands a platform. Here you will find a range of clothes, accessories, home furnishings and stationery.

Wooden Bologna

If you are looking for sustainable, locally produced clothing, Wooden is where you will find it. The shop sells modern clothing and accessories which unite style with environmental awareness. ‘Modern-sporty-Canadian-Dad-Style’ – this is perhaps the best way to describe the products on sale.

Markets

Markets are a firmly entrenched part of Italian culture, reflecting the liveliness of the cities where they are held. In Bologna, they invite you to amble through, look around and try things out – from freshly-made food to hand-made products to vintage treasures.

Rail Market

What could possibly be better than a market on an old railway? This is where the Rail Market regularly takes place, offering a diverse range of hand-made products, vintage items and street food. All of this is accompanied by live music, which ensures a lively atmosphere.

Mercato Ritrovato

Fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy and meat products, or locally produced wine and beer? On this farmers' market there is something for everyone. Around 50 producers from the region offer their specialities here. The market atmosphere is completed by the street food stands and live music. But there’s more: those who are interested can also attend cookery courses. Opening hours: Saturdays, 9am – 2pm (September to June), Wednesdays 5.30pm – 9.30pm (April to October).

Mercatino di beneficenza di San Francesco

This market is a different way to attend church. Several times a year, the Basilica San Francesco opens its gates and invites visitors to come in and wander around its charity market. In the cloister, second-hand clothing, books and furniture can be found. The money made supports the basilica and humanitarian projects. Highlights are the big market in June and in autumn, as well as the Christmas market.

Culture

Bologna can look back on a rich cultural history – from Europe’s oldest university to impressive museums and lively street art. This is where tradition meets modernity, science meets art, and the past meets the present.

Museo di Palazzo Poggi

The building in which this museum is to be found is worth a visit in itself. Palazzo Poggi was designed in the 16th century by Pellegrino Tibaldi. Amongst other things, today it is still possible to marvel at many of the frescoes which he left on the walls and ceilings. The museum contains the collections of the former institute of sciences and arts. The exhibits include topics such as geography, nautical science, military architecture, physics, natural history, chemistry, anatomy and obstetrics. Something for everyone, in other words.

Street art

Street art arrived in Bologna in the 1980s. Since then, the city has become one of the most significant centres of street art in Italy. Bologna now has an impressive collection of murals and graffiti with contributions by both international and local artists. The hotspots are Via Stalingrado and the Porto-Saragozza quarter. For those who are interested, there are guided tours which cover the most significant works and provide more of the story behind the works and their creators.

Santuario della Madonna di San Luca

This place is not such an insider tip, but it is still well worth a visit. The 3.8km long Portico di San Luca begins at the Porta Saragozza and extends to the church. With 666 arches, it is the longest arcade in the world and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2021. With its elevated position, this striking piece of architecture offers impressive views of Bologna and the surrounding landscape.

Zu.Art giardino delle arti

Behind a wall in a side road, you will find this beautiful little garden. It is an oasis of green which hosts exhibitions, concerts and all sorts of cultural events. It is a meeting point for art and music enthusiasts from the whole city. This location supports exchange between young talents and established artists and offers a platform for creative forms of expression. Besides housing regular exhibitions, the garden is also a place to relax, learn and enjoy the company of others.

Bologna by train

Visiting Bologna from Switzerland by train is easy, with direct daily connections from Zurich. It is also possible to reach Bologna from Bern, Zurich, Lausanne, Basel and Geneva with one change in Milan. The on-board restaurant and free WiFi ensure a pleasant journey.

Journeys on the EuroCity require reservation. It therefore makes sense to book on time – the trains can be very busy, depending on the day of the week and the time of day.

Tip: Discover the city as part of an Interrail journey across Italy, or through a number of different countries – this is often cheaper than buying a Point-to-Point Ticket.

What’s more: Taking the train instead of driving means you are also doing your bit for the environment. According to the Ecocalculator in the SBB timetable, the rail journey from Zurich to Bologna and back saves some 268kg of CO2 compared to a road journey.

You can find more information about travel to Bologna on the SBB page ‘By train to Bologna’ and about Interrail offers on the SBB page ‘Interrail’.

Book an appointment at the SBB Travel Centre

You can easily book your journey to Bologna or to another European city via SBB Mobile. Would you prefer a personal consultation without having to queue? Book your appointment at the SBB Travel Centre and spend more time travelling. Book Travel Centre appointment now.

By train to Bologna | SBBBook an appointment at the Travel Centre
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